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MapDescription
Located between 'Gateway to the Lost World' route and the 'Pearly Gates' route. See Desert Rock IV by Bjornstad The very obvious right facing corner and crack. A great climb for wide crack lovers.
P1) Climb the flake/chimney to huge flake wedged in the chimney 50' 5.7 P2/3. Chimney/layback around the roof then up corner crack to a bolt. Here one may have to belay due to rope drag 5.10d Continue up the wide offwidth passing bolts and large cam placements to a thin right facing corner and the top. This upper section was followed free at about 5.11+. Awaits full free ascent as of Nov 2003. 150' 5.10d C1.
Protection
Double set cams, then double 5" and 6" wires to place over bolts with nuts or to free last pitch bring 1/2" wrench and hangers + Hammer.
Routes in Lost World Butte
- 2Persistence Rules5.10dTrad · Aid