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Peak Mountain 3

Quarantine Corner

FA Spring 2020, FA Aubrey Hodges/Mitch Parker, FFA Dan James/Mitch Parker (help from Andrew Bennett and inspiration from Wilson Cutbirth)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Quarantine Corner 5.12c (5.11 C1) - 150m - 6 Pitches - South FacingContinuous corner system on solid Coconino sandstone with a wide variety of climbing styles, a stunning position, bolted belay ledges, and a ton of sunshine.  This is probably my favorite FA so far and my buddy Tilly calls it the Dao of Mitch.  It's a little obscure but that's how we like em. P1-25m-5.11++ Place a good RP or stick clip bolt, stretch you back out, and velcro-boulder your way to the first real hold. Awkwardly mantle said hold and continue up on sparse gear and bolts to a huge ledge. (optional RP/tiny offset brassy, 3 bolts, single 00 to 2)P2-25m-5.12+ Lie back hard tips splitter to a wide rest pod. Finish on a steeper tips crack with better feet and a little sports action finale.  I dare say one of the best pitch of coconino I've touched.  (triple 00 to .3, double .4 to 3, single 4)P3-20m-5.10+ 2 bolts across a face deposit you into a fun OW (single .75 to 2, double 5)P4-25m-5.9 Ditch a 4 and a 5, move belay, and squeeeezzee (single .75 to 3, single 5)P5-30m-5.10+ Engaging flared chimney thing with bolts and gear (single .5 to 2, single 5)P6-28m-5.9 Off-fingers, duck through oak trees to wide hands, and step out onto bolted patina face.

Rap the route being super careful not to get rope stuck on chimney pitch, hasn't happened yet but it looks sticky.  I think it can be done with a 60 but I've only used a 70 and I'm bad at math.

Location

Myself and some friends have been calling this area the North Fork and the approach takes about 45mins.-Park at W Fork Trailhead and follow tourist trail across about 4 crossings, bringing you to a slick rock swimming pool and large boulder. -Soon after the boulder will come a drainage that flows N to South, turn right at poop trail by two large pines and make your way up the close (right) side of seasonal creek. -Faint trail meanders up this canyon through burned logs, an earlyish crossing to the left side, under a small buttress, and eventually to the confluence which is marked by a big briar patch. -Go slightly left out of the briars and up a gully on the right, directly between the two canyons above. -Loose gully ends at red cliff on the left. Make some easy moves up cliff steps trending hard left and then hard right at next major red cliff. -Pass under and left of a tower with a sport line on it's left side. More loose hillside left of the tower brings you up to a saddle with another sport line on the arete. -You can now see the obvious dihedral in front of you.  Allow it to pull you in, up the shoulder and down the little gully to the right.35.001162420896044, -111.74764835288866Yes, there are other climbs here and an small shady crag on the red stuff across and further up the left fork.  I'll post it soon after adding some chains and so on but feel free to explore if it's a warm day.  There are a couple pockets of good climbing up tucked up there.

Protection

Optional RP and 000 Triple (at least) of 00 to .3 Double .4 to 3 Single 4 Double 5 offset nuts useful but redundant with so many cams