- Edit (TBD)
Description
Touted as "the best 12d on the Western Slope," this is certainly a wild, sustained pitch on some pretty good East Elk limestone.
Start to the left of
Dobby
but to the right of The Wand on a line of bolts that leads straight up and then hard left to a roof of sorts. Cop a rest here near the bird doo-doo. Then crank through a few hard-to-read boulder problems (many closely spaced bolts) with very little rest and odd sequences until you reach a marginal shake below the grey, steep, and slightly runout headwall. Another redpoint crux of long reaches on good crimps leads to some marginal holds and finally the chert band below the anchors. Stand up carefully, and then clip the anchors....
Location
It is to the left of
Dobby
. Note the bolts moving hard left after the start.
Protection
16 or so bolts.