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Peak Mountain 3

Dirty Rags

FA Andrew Leich, March 2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A rare and exceptional line on perfect stone.  Despite its short height, this is an absolute king line.  Follow a series of core-intensive gastons and sidepulls through three bolts of shallow vertical seams, and get a much needed shake on a jug below a roof.  Its about 12a to this point.  From the jug, pull an incredibly difficult crux through the roof. This crux has been done two ways: Shorter folks will have to utilize an imaginary undercling, and do a full-span move to a miserable finger lock culminating in a cross into a perfect mono pocket.  Taller people can dyno through this move, but will have to re-adjust afterward, as it sets your hands up backwards.  Finish it up with a couple tenuous moves to jugs.  This line has yet to see a repeat, so the grade is unconfirmed, but it will feel somewhere between 5.13b and 5.14a depending on your height and reach.

Location

This is the obvious line following the series of cracks and seams up the left side of the cliff.

Protection

4 bolts and shuts