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Peak Mountain 3

Just A Smidgen Harder

FA Greg Hand, Richard Burrows, PH, 7/29/2014
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

It's actually a lot harder.

The 1st pitch climbs the slanting roof above

For the Children

and is about 5.10b.

The 2nd pitch (10+) has a crux above the belay and one just before the anchors. Follow line of bolts on the left side of the final roof. Realize the 10b/c consensus rating is because many people only do the 1st pitch and rate it 10a. The 2nd pitch is harder. As someone indicated, they did it in 1 long pitch, but there will be tremendous rope drag at the top crux.

A 60m rope will make it to the ground on rappel. You probably cannot lower because of abrasion. Because of current river noise, you will not be able to hear the leader. This may change by season. Belaying from the midway anchors, you will not be able to see the leader. Have a plan in advance. The 1st pitch is very good on its own, and you can lower to the ground.

Location

This is the extension above

For the Children

.

Protection

1st pitch - 10 bolts to chains.

2nd pitch - 7 bolts to chains.