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Peak Mountain 3

Mind Games

FA May 28 1987, Bob McGown & Tim Olson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Mind Games is one of the most unique routes at Rocky Butte. A good introduction to the world of off-width climbing. I think more people would climb it if it were widely known how to access the area. Start by gaining the belay ledge, either by rappelling in or climbing up 20' from the forest floor. Ascend an easy, blocky start up to the chimney. Stem and grunt up the large flaring chimney before making a tricky exit move below the anchor.

Location

If approaching from above, walk along the cliff-top trail Northwest from the Video Bluff. Look for a single black hanger on top of a rock at the cliff's edge (see photo). This is the access area for Mind Games and Phylynx. Tie off to the tree and rappel over the edge to a fixed anchor at the top of the route. 

Accessing Mind Games from the base of the wall is possible by climbing a short, roughly 20' section of easy 5th class rock and gaining the belay ledge with a belay anchor.

Protection

A full rack up to 6 inches. Protection is plentiful.