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Peak Mountain 3

Eagle Buttress Traverse

FA unknown
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Description

This is a fun ridge scramble that makes for a nice training session. Follow the obvious ridge NE from the top of Eagle Buttress for ~1 mile. Keep to the ridge for more fun/difficulty, or drop down to either side for class 2 walking at pretty much any point.

There is a notable pillar midway through the traverse. The pillar starts off as a hand crack that takes #3s (and #1s and #2s according to some trip reports). The second half of the pillar is protected with 2 bolts and a pin. Once on top you'll find 2 bolts for rappels, a fair amount of bird poop, and excellent views. (FA: Tim Ball and Tammy Graham, 1999).

Bailing (generally to the left of the ridge) is an easy walk off at most points.

Location

Get yourself to the top of Eagle Buttress (can scramble up via 4th/5th class), then start scrambling along the ridge.

For the descent, drop down 50-100 feet to the left of the ridge and walk back to the start.

Protection

Small alpine rack and 30m rope would be sufficient for parties who wish to rope up for any challenging sections.