- Edit (TBD)
Description
At a crag where steep is king, this quality vertical route is severely ignored. With cool, grooved rock, and thin, intricate moves this forgotten line will have you feeling humble no matter what you just cruised in the cave.
Thirty feet of easy patina climbing on mediocre rock set you up in a huge, deteriorating hueco below the very sustained headwall. Make a hard move out of the hueco to some small edges(crux) and then move left to better holds. Crimp past another hard section and keep it together until you hit some big holds. Rest up, then make a weird move to reach more good holds. Subtle slopers lead up and right to better holds and the chains. No need to use the crack below the chains(unless you want to).
Besides a little lichen and the tree just left of the route, this line is very nice. Definitely deserves more traffic. Rated 12b in the guide, but felt like solid 12c at least. Much harder than Swahili Slang.
Stays dry after heavy rain.
Location
Just right of Swahili Slang.
Protection
Bolts and a two bolt anchor. Just got revolted with glue-ins.