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Peak Mountain 3

Red Light District

FA Brian and Vicki Smoot 1990
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route starts towards the right (eastern) end of the first section of the lower S-Curves wall. It is directly below a smaller roof about 100 feet to the right of the giant roof.

The first two bolts take you over a funky roof that seems much harder than the 5.9+ given in Ruckman's book. The holds were there, but we were a bit sketched out until we got a top-rope on it. It is possible to climb left or right around the roof, but this would definitely be off-route and not quite as fun.

After the crux, the climbing is relatively straight-forward, though many of the obvious looking holds seem to be pointing down. The route moves up to the right and finishes to the right of the large roof directly above your belayer. Once you get to the top, you'll have a fine view up and down the canyon.

Protection

Six bolts to a double chain anchor. The hangers look a bit old and most of them spin, but it didn't really bother us. The chains are solid.