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Peak Mountain 3

Stirling Moss

FA Richard Harrison, Wendell Broussard, Nick Nordblom, Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Thin, heady, and varied-- a sustained tick that probably edges further into sandbag territory every time someone climbs it and wears away at the tiny fragile holds. THIN slab to groany flake to odd mostly horizontal moves out a steep section to chossish finishing face (easier). Way more classic than I could describe. A window back in time when balls and mind control made you a climber worth respecting, not who pays you to wear their shoes. When placing a bolt meant you NEEDED it, not because it made the route "popular" or "accessible." Classic.

Location

The lone bolt on this cliff (the only one necessary) denotes the route.

Protection

A good candidate for a multiple rope pro system and more than one belayer (it's Britishy). Pro can be found way to the right in a crack that you'd have to climb, protect, downclimb, and also by climbing up Soylent to the tree, slinging that, then downclimbing to the ground and psyching up for some interesting catches if you grease. The bolt is old but not horrendous, but as soon as you're clipped in you'll know that you're in for some excitement. Hand and fist sized cams for the flake, small pro up top before the steeps, long slings and experieced belayer(s) are a must. Get shortroped on this one and you're headed back to the car the fast way. Wendell B. advised Meoli that this one was protected from the side on the FA, so you're not chicken when you use all available resources.