Chex Mix

There are three tiny towers punctuating the serrated south ridge of Checkered Demon.

Chex Mix

takes a direct line up the west buttress of the north tower. It's not particularly steep, but you'd be hard-pressed to find better alpine granite. Chickenheads galore!

Scramble (3rd/4th-class) to the starting ledge in the middle of the buttress where 5th-class climbing begins.

Pitch 1 (5.7, 200 feet):

Choose from a selection of chickenhead-studded handcracks on the subvertical wall. The cracks merge together about 30 feet up. Trend left on parallel cracks, aiming for the right edge of a left-leaning acute black dihedral (see photos). Immediately before entering the dihedral, pull the bulge straight up (improbable 5.7) and soar into a majestic hands splitter. Low-angle parallel cracks feed up and left to a ledge belay.

P1 variation (5.8+ PG-13, 200 feet):

Instead of busting straight through the right edge of the acute black dihedral, continue left along the thin crack (sparse pro) to the top of the dihedral. Then, move back right to a ledge belay below the regular second pitch.

Pitch 2 (5.4, 120 feet):

Bee-line it for the summit on super fun granite blocks.

Descent:

Rappel 200 feet into the north gully and scramble (3rd/4th-class) down to the bottom. If you only brought one rope, bring extra cord/webbing for an intermediate anchor in the upper gully.

You wouldn't hike all the way out here just to do this route, but it could give you something to do if you have a spare day in the area. Combine it with

The Devil Wears Plaid

(5.10-) and also tag the south tower (via 5.8 corner on north ridge) for better value.

Hike up to Piute Pass, then cross-country into Humphreys Basin. Head northeast, aiming directly toward Checkered Demon (between Humphreys and Emerson). There are two sizeable tarns directly below the west face of Checkered Demon. The southern one (Lake 12,240') is somewhat circular and makes a nice campsite. The towers on the south ridge of Checkered Demon rise directly above this tarn.

For new leaders: Standard alpine rack to 3"

For experienced leaders: Light alpine rack to 3"