Guilty Pleasure

This route was an old unfinished and unlisted project that went halfway up the wall and stopped short at a bail biner. The route has finally been continued and is excellent! The route follows some almost runnout climbing on 5.9-5.10 terrain up to a very technical (but well protected) crux sequence on tiny crimps and a minuscule mono.

P1

: 100' Climb "No Man's Land" to the second anchor. (Downclimb to titanium bolts)

P2

: 100' Climb past 8 bolts of increasing difficulty up to a well protected 5.11 crux heading up and LEFT on the headwall. There are some 11- holds far far right of the bolts that always get chalked up. If you take that detour and fall, it will be a rescue for sure! Stick to the bolts.

P3

: 80' Traverse back up and right through 5.9 stemming and over to a 4th class chossy ramp with two bolts.

Descent: Walk off or do two raps down the main wall. 60m rope needed.

Farthest left route. Climb No Man's Land to access.

8 bolts, 2 optional old bolts + Ram's horns anchor.