- Edit (TBD)
Description
Bong Crack is a high quality crack route at Diablo.Fire it up the kind hand and finger cracks in a left-facing corner for the lower 3/4 of the climb. This section takes good pro, and is quite clean, with just enough good rest stances to keep the grade at 5.9. When you reach the level of the Class Act anchors, you can traverse left to bail out of 5.10c wide crack finish. But if you're up for it- keep climbing up the crack and do the full route.The final 10' to the anchor, the crack is wider. Modern climbers will forsake the bong in favor of #3 and #4 camalots, as you squirm, stem, and thrash your way to the chains.
Location
This climb is the obvious crack on the right side of the Grotto Entrance. It is between Class Act and Woogie's Wild Ride. Bong crack is #17 in Bradshaws excellent online guide
Protection
Nuts and cams up to a #3 camalot (#4's can be placed too). A 2-bolt anchor with rap-hangers is at the top.
Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)
- 22Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch)5.10Trad