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Peak Mountain 3

Turkish Heels

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Description

Most likely first route on established on K Cliff.

(The cliff was named after the same Keith who climbed Keith’s Crack at the Mid Wall)

When first climbed there were a couple FP – an LA near the bottom and a Bugaboo just above the crux.

The bottom pin was stolen resulting in some scarring, so both pins were replaced with bolts. The crux is climbing the thin crack/weird arch at the start (kind of off balance laybacking) and making a reach to a jug at the top where the crack ends.

The section above the first bolt has several  RP placements.

When dirty the moss here is like ball bearings but when clean the rock is quite grippy.

Once good holds are reached the next protection is the second bolt.

This section is relatively easy but you wouldn't want to fall here.

Above the second pin a LFC is followed to the anchor.

Not sure what to make of the 5.12 r/x rating in the current guide. I put R here just because a fall above the crux would be bad and the guidebook claims a r/x rating. The climbing in this section is much easier than crux and basically is just standing on the jugs reached after the crux. That said   Its easily top roped as it shares an anchor with another route.   The climbing up the arch is really fun so give it a go!

Protection

Mostly small gear.