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Peak Mountain 3

Edge of Eternity

FA Wayne Wallace, Robert McGrown, Tim Olson, FFA 2-25-88
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Located in the middle of Bridge Cliff is a clean crack topped by a roof with a bolt on it. The first pitch has the crux protected by a bolt and the second pitch is all bolted. Super fun and super safe. Get on it! Pitch 1: Do some easy climbing on gear to get to a crux bolt, make the crux move right around the corner. Place some more optional pro and make your way to anchors.  There are three anchors on the ledge. I went to the middle one to set up for the second pitch. Tim Olson calls this pitch 5.11. Pitch 2: Fully bolted and kicks up with some intensity. Follow the bolt line immediately above you.  In the middle of the rock face there are two bolt lines that are close together. Take the left of the two. I found moving off the first bolt to be the first crux. There are two distinct cruxes. Tim calls this 11+ and that feels somewhat accurate to me. Pitch 3: There is a third pitch but I have not been on it yet. But I have been told "...it's recognizable as it’s on a short arete with a few bolts. The old original bolts were left in so if u see some super old looking home made bolts on that, you know you are on route."

Location

In the middle of Bridge Cliff. Climb up to roof and move right around. Continue directly up for second pitch 

Protection

Gear to crux bolt. Bolts from there to the top with an optional #1 BD after crux. Bolts from there up. 


Routes in (4) Bridge Cliff