- Edit (TBD)
The Brave Little Toaster
Description
This is a cool climb to an awesome summit! There's some soft rock, but overall it's good quality for a tower. It might even go free if the bolt ladder is unlocked. Pitches 1 & 2 were aided on lead and freed on top-rope.
Pitch 1: Climb easy broken rock to the right-angling finger/thin hands flared splitter. Pull the
5.11
crux on good rock and finish on 5.9 soft rock to a two drilled pin anchor at the saddle.
Pitch 2: Traverse left to a drilled pin and tension off or downclimb left to the major corner system on the West face. Nice
5.11
climbing in the corner from thin fingers to slabby OW on good rock to three drilled pin anchor.
Pitch 3: Climb right and around the corner to reach the bolt ladder on the south and east face. Three drilled pins on top.
5.8 A0
Might go free, the rock is a little soft.
Rap once from the summit to the saddle, then again to the ground with a
70m
rope. Bring a decent bit of cord to backup anchors.
This climb is listed in Cameron Burns' Select Climbs of the Desert Southwest.
Location
West Face of Tiki Tower. Climbs the main right-facing blocky weakness to a right-leaning fingers/hands crack to the saddle. Traverse left to the major corner system. Wrap around south and east to summit on a bolt ladder.
Protection
Triple up in finger sizes. Doubles .2 to #3 Camalot, 1 #4. A set of ladders for the leader would be nice for the bolt ladder.
Routes in Tiki Tower
- 1The Brave Little Toaster5.11Trad · Aid