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Peak Mountain 3

Hanging Pillar

FA Jim Beyer - solo
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This modern route (2014) is well protected face climbing . The rock is unusually rough (for the apron) as the chimney above shelters it from running water and sliding snow from above. This is one of the best quality routes of its grade on the apron.

P1) Climb or 3rd class to the top of the Goblet

P2).9 - 4 bolts - From the far left side of the long ledge at the top of the Goblet, climb the R facing corner to the roof. Step L over roof onto slab and climb knobs,friction and micro flakes(.9) to the 4th bolt. Traverse L to ez ramp and up R to 2 bolt belay on ramp/ledge.

P3) 160' .10b - 10 bolts - Step L on to slab(.9) then up and L on moderate edging(bolted) to arête on L side of the hanging pillar. Climb moderate arête to steeper, knobby arête crux(pimpin .10b). Continue up arête then out R and back L to summit of the hanging pillar w/2 bolt anchor.

Protection

bolts + 1 each cam 3/8" to 2" + a few small nuts