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Peak Mountain 3

North Face

FA Tim Kelley, Dick McGowan 1954
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: Crux of the route is right off the ground in an awkward rightward trending handcrack. Once through it, the climbing eases. Pick you way up the easiest options to a large belay block slung with tat and a rap anchor (visible from the base of the climb). 5.7 120'

P2: Initially climb a few moves right of the belay, then head back left up and over some more blocky (and mossy) terrain. Meander your way back and forth climbing the path of least resistance, eventually trending farther right. Belay at the notch between the true summit and the west summit (there is a rap anchor here as well). 5.7 80'

P3: If you are comfortable, unrope for this pitch and scramble to the true summit along the ridge crest. There may be one 5.easy move on it, but it's mostly 4th class. If you choose to stay roped, leave the gear in place in order to "re-lead" the pitch on the descent, as you cannot rap a traverse.

Location

Approach from Blue Lake TH as for Liberty Bell/Concord Tower, but trend left and ascend the gully between Lexington and Concord Towers. Route should be pretty obvious from here.

The other approach is to climb up and over Concord Tower from the north, then rap into the Concord-Lexington Notch on Concord's south face. This is part of the Liberty Group Traverse (all 5 spires in one day), or a good option of the routes over on Liberty Bell are congested.

Protection

Single rack to 2


Routes in Lexington Tower