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Peak Mountain 3

Reusable Love Bag

FA (lower portion) Alvino Pon, Eddie Pain, 1993
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route starts near the middle of the main face next to a large pine tree. It shares the first bolt with Too Many Puppies. Scramble up a moderate slab to an open cold shut, then bust left through a series of small roofs (crux) and continue up an immaculate slab to a two bolt rappel anchor. With a 70m, we could reach the ground fine, a 60m MAY just make it...tie knots! As of 6/11, the anchor bolts were a terrible looking, rusted buttonhead with a homemade hanger, and a rusted wedge bolt with a beefy Metolius rap hanger. Gillett's guide notes a second pitch which continues up and left past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (5.9-). A third pitch goes up at 5.9 R to a single bolt anchor. More options may exist above (apparently a project?).

Forgive me, as I have only climbed the first pitch but thought others might be psyched to at least know there is excellent cragging here.

Protection

P1 - 6 bolts plus small to medium cams.


Routes in West-Northwest Face