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Peak Mountain 3

Cat Daddy

FA John Duran & Gary Byzak, August 1988
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This was for a long time the hardest completed route in the Sandias and unrepeated on lead. Climbs the obvious crack splitting the steep red wall. The majority of the route is probably hard 5.11+ to a difficult and technical boulder problem at the top.

Climb the varied and steep crack till it pinches off as it curves to the right, do crux moves onto the slab and step right to the bolted anchor of Event Horizon or step back left and climb crumbly rock with a fair bit of lichen to the Autum Ivy anchors.

Rarely lead, possible to TR from the Autum Ivy anchors with a 70m rope.

Location

Obvious steep crack just right of the ledge spitting the slightly overhanging red wall.

Protection

RP's, double set of cams to #2 camalot, with more in the off fingers size, bolt anchor.