The Direct Route

THE DIRECT ROUTE 5.10b ** 175’ (or 2 pitch) M (11b)

Climbs a direct line up the middle of the face from the lowest point on the lower buttress to a rap/belay station on the huge ledge half way up to the top chain anchors - can be done in one pitch or two. (Better to rap the route than lower over the sharp edge on top).

P1 – 5.7 * 80’ F (6b) –Broken easy rock on the lower face leads to some interesting face climbing before the big ledge (2 ring anchors).

P2 – 5.10b ** 95’ M (5b) – Continue up the corner from the belay ledge, and climb on sound rock directly through the obvious weaknesses to the top (2 chain anchors). At least a #3 and .5 cam are needed to protect the initial (crux) corner.

Takes a direct line up the middle of the South Face (past the large ledge at mid point and up the arched corner above).

mixed - several medium to large cams are needed