Axe to Fall

The striking "Axe Blade" arete that begins from the pedestal. All-time movement and position.Stick clip the high first glue in and start up very easy blocky ground from the far left. Get set up below the arete, enter a punchy but elegant compression boulder, and then hang on for modern, gymnastic, core-draining power-endurance. No chalking for 12 moves: a satisfying fight. More conditions dependent than other routes in the area. Has unique holds and satisfying moves. Helpful (and safe) to skip the clip at the lip. Especially considering the area and the difficulty, there aren't any injurious or painful holds, no monos, nothing too sharp, just powerful and fun. Not my style at all, would prefer not to even grade the route, were that an option on mp. Probably my favorite new route thus far in 12 years of climbing, and definitely my favorite route at Lookout.

The obvious streaked, laser cut arete at the left side of the Sky Burial wall. Do a V0- in tennis shoes from the right side to gain the spacious belay pedestal and then have your buddy hand up your packs. Def bring a stick clip.Stays wet longer after rain than most routes here.

6 glueins to shared anchor with the unknown 5.12 to the right (will give it a dedicated anchor when I rebolt the 5.12). Hardware donated by Dan Stringer. You can use the first bolt of the route to the right to protect the belayer.