I Can Smell Your Thoughts

The description from Thompson guidebook, 2017... "this superb route starts in the Dragon's Lair behind a tree, a short distance right of the corner. Follow the line of bolts up a beautifully clean wall to anchors."

It is at The Gallery, towards the end of Far Side in a cool setting. Go past the Well Hung amphitheater, up the scramble past

Blackshirts

, then go down into the pit. The left side wall is

Chomping at the Bit

, the left dihedral crack is

Coffee Bitch

• this is the line directly in front of the tree.

7 bolts with a bed frame hanger for #1 and newer hangers for the rest of the route. Don't be put off by the spacing. This is easy off the deck, but ya know, safety third.

Heads up: the anchors at the top have a bad setup. A rap is advised.