- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is the longest route on the cliff, second from the right.
Start with an undercling, then power through (10b/c; somewhat height dependent) a slightly overhanging bulge to a ledge (3 bolts). Continue up an easier corner on orange varnish past a 4th and 5th bolt, then, at the 6th bolt, move left at a tricky undercling (5.10-), then back right past a 7th bolt up to the top and a chain anchor.
The 7th bolt was not used on the first ascent and was added later to protect the follower (or for toproping) from a bad swing and potential injurious fall.
A harder (10+) direct finish has been toproped: move right at the 6th bolt and power over an overhang. No need to clip the 7th bolt for a directional if toproping the direct finish.
Beware of crumbly rock at the ledge half way up and at the very top.
Protection
7 bolts to a 2-bolt chain lower-off/rappel anchor.
Routes in Sleepy Hollow
- 4Carving Pumpkins5.10a/bSport