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Peak Mountain 3

Lucky Charms

FA Aaron Parlier
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Description

This gorgeous, steep arete and face climbs like a dream.

Sit start very low on the large, obvious pebbly jug mouth. Move up to a deep finger bucket and then higher juggy pocket/jugs. Reach out to a deep two finger pocket and set up on the fat pinch block.

Launch high to the thin hueco and work into the massive jug hole at the split in the boulder. Climb up direct past open hand features at the bulge and top out direct.

Note: The tree beside the further arete (with Snake Charmer) is the best way I have found to get off of this boulder. Also, be aware that the landing or the tree downclimb here is potentially dangerous. One direction you have a large knife edge sloped block that is hard to protect, the other direction you have a pointed beaver-chewed stump. use pads for the tree downclimb if able.

Location

The opposite arete (downstream arete) from Snake Charmer.

Protection

lots of pads


Routes in Charm Boulder