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Peak Mountain 3

Route 6

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Description

Climb the crack right of Route 5. Start up blocky terrain to a good stance below the bulging finger crack. Get in some good finger size pro and gaston, or perhaps lieback, up through bulge with little to no feet. This is the crux. Above, climb through some good hand jams to a big, positive flake. Either finish straight up along the flake's left edge or climb fun moves to the right underclinging the flake to cruiser terrain. Bring a couple double-length slings for the two-bolt anchor at the top.

Location

Route #6 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in

East side of Big Enchilada. From my old guide. .

This climb is also listed as Beverly #7 (5.10d/11a) and Jackson #2 (5.10d/11a).

Protection

TR, or lead it with a standard rack up to 3". Two-bolt anchor at top.