Sharp on Both Ends

This is an excellent route, just as good as

Babies R' Us

and arguably better than

Endless Summer

. It is definitely not as spicy as the Diagonal Super Direct. It has two great, back-to-back 11d pitches and one of the best finger cracks in The Park. It is a great option if the

North Chimney

is backed up with shenanigans and you're not psyched on your Diamond plan anymore.

Locate the obvious, right-facing dihedral halfway up the wall to the right of

Directissima

. That's the 11d finger crack you're aiming for. Instead of climbing the easy, angling ramp past the

Red Wall

and

Directissima

, locate an obvious, left-facing corner system at the base of the wall below

Directissima

.

Several 5.9-5.10 options exist for P1. Aim for a left-facing, wide corner.

P2. Underclng and lieback the short, wide corner, 9+, then go up ledgy terrain to the base of another left-facing corner.

P3. Continue up the left-facing corner, 5.9, and when it starts to look chossy, step left, and climb a cool, 5.7 traverse to a nice belay below the beautiful right-facing 11d corner. P2 and P3 could be combined.

P4. Stem and lieback up the obvious, right-facing corner for 80' to a nice ledge on the left. This is sustained, well-protected, and super fun.

P5. Crack climb up and left onto a steep face with knobs. Pass a bolt (11c or d), then finger traverse left with poor feet for 60'. Protection here was surprisingly good, but the climbing is pumpy. Pass a pin at the end of the traverse, and then climb easier rock up and left to a belay on

Directissima

.

P6. Finish up

Directissima

, 10b.

A standard alpine rack with a double set cams through a#2 Camalot, one #3, maybe extra blue and green Aliens.