Evil Monkey

In order to reduce rope drag belay from the large ledge level with the left side of the overhanging roof. P1: staying below the 2 bolts traverse out over the roof and around the sharp corner to a small airy belay ledge (5.7, about 25 ft). The Crux and fun is commiting to the move around the corner. P2: climb straight up the arete to the summit. Rap of two summit bolts, no chains. Or scramble off backside.

On Baseline Trail between Turtle and Trolls Throne. The obvious overhanging formation immediately left of Iron Maden.Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Map 3a page 104.

Bolts, no chains.