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Peak Mountain 3

Safety Pin

FA Vaino Kodas, 1984
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Begin on a boulder near the left end and traverse right above a roof to large stances. The first gear placement is about 15' off the ground but the climbing difficulty through the initial section is moderate (5.10-). Continue upward past one bolt and a piton before reaching the sustained crux section using side pulls, protruding edges, and small crystals to a sloping ledge. A move over a bulge near the top leads to a two bolt anchor.

Location

This fine route ascends the middle section of the Safety First Rock through a series of discontinuous slanting seams on solid rock. The Safety First Rock is about 40' right of the Future Games formation.

Protection

Many small stoppers including brass and #00 - #3 TCU's provide adequate protection. One bolt (3/8") and a solid piton are also present. A two bolt (3/8") anchor is present on top of the rock.


Routes in Safety First Rock


  1. 2
    Safety Pin
    5.11c
    Trad