Northeast Face

There are a variety of ways to access this route. The route I used starts from the moraine that splits the Middle Palisade glacier. Up and to your right is a somewhat horizontal band of red rock. Cross the 'schrund and follow the red band till you've climbed into a large gully. Careful, lots of loose rock on the band. Once in the gully, go straight up on great class 3/4 rock past the first gendarme (on your left)to a split in the gully. Keep to the left and continue climbing to the top of the gully and the summit ridge. About 100ft to your left is the true summit. Climb down the same way you came up.

See comments below for the correct and easier start.

"One of the range’s best third-class climbs" Doug Robinson.

Ice axe, crampons and helmet.