- Edit (TBD)
On Your Left
Description
Another scrap left over after all these years. This one has a direct start on 5.13 razors, but I'll leave that for the next intrepid and motivated person.
The name is an homage to the Captain America legacy. As a comic book nerd, Cap is one of my favorites and his relationship with Sam Wilson, the new Cap, has always delighted me. I watched an episode of "The Falcon and The Winter Soldier" the night before completing the route, so the theme was on my mind. Those of you who have seen the "Captain America; The Winter Soldier" film will recall that as Steve Rogers laps Sam multiple times on an early-morning run in the beginning of the film, he says this catch phrase each time, culminating in a hilarious exchange. And when all the Avengers re-emerge in "Avengers; End Game", the phrase is spoken again. Watching that scene on opening night of the movie was one of the top cinematic experiences of my life. The route also takes a HARD left to begin with, so I found the name fitting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UGu2sRmSHI
Start as for Rhododenema, but rail out left on the horizontal almost to its end after 30-ish feet. I chose not to place any gear on this section, and if you do you'll likely want double ropes. You'll see what I mean.
At the end of the traverse, place a couple of good pieces and launch upward over the bulge through a crimpy boulder problem that involves a couple of unique holds. After this you'll find a rest, then more super fun 5.10 through and above the obvious crack feature to the top, where you'll need to arrange your own anchor. I used a static line and draped a master point over the edge.
Location
Start as for Rhododenema but continue left. The crack of the upper portion is obvious from below.
Protection
I used a BD #2 and .75 first, then a red Alien, a #7 stopper, a BD #3 and finally a #1. Plan accordingly. I also TR soloed this one a bit to figure it out.
Routes in Junkyard Wall
- 6On Your Left5.11Trad