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Peak Mountain 3

Hot Rocks

FA John Long, Richard Harrison and Ging Gingrich, February 1973 FFA: John Bachar, 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

There are two starts to the climb - 1) climb the seam directly with no protection, or 2) climb past a bolt just right of the seam. Either way thin and delicate slab moves gain a stance where you can get some gear in. From here lieback and jam up a thin crack (crux) to a horizontal, after which the crack widens and enjoyable jamming past a steep bulge leads to the top. Descend by walking down the south shoulder (climber's right).

A true Josh classic with varied, interesting moves up a clean face.

This is one of the climbs that John Bachar used to routinely solo back in the late 70's/early 80's. Other routes regularly soloed were

Left Ski Track

(5.11a),

More Monkey than Funky

(5.11b) and

Spider Line

(5.11d).

Location

Hot Rocks

is the masterpiece of this wall and climbs a line just right of center identified as a seam that higher widens and forms a crack. Just left of this route is the thin and technical

Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs)

while further left is the widening crack of

Looney Tunes

.

Protection

1 bolt (1/2"), gear to 3 inches