- Edit (TBD)
Hot Rocks
Description
There are two starts to the climb - 1) climb the seam directly with no protection, or 2) climb past a bolt just right of the seam. Either way thin and delicate slab moves gain a stance where you can get some gear in. From here lieback and jam up a thin crack (crux) to a horizontal, after which the crack widens and enjoyable jamming past a steep bulge leads to the top. Descend by walking down the south shoulder (climber's right).
A true Josh classic with varied, interesting moves up a clean face.
This is one of the climbs that John Bachar used to routinely solo back in the late 70's/early 80's. Other routes regularly soloed were
Left Ski Track
(5.11a),
More Monkey than Funky
(5.11b) and
Spider Line
(5.11d).
Location
Hot Rocks
is the masterpiece of this wall and climbs a line just right of center identified as a seam that higher widens and forms a crack. Just left of this route is the thin and technical
Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs)
while further left is the widening crack of
Looney Tunes
.
Protection
1 bolt (1/2"), gear to 3 inches