- Edit (TBD)
Description
This probably isn't the exact way the FA was done, but it definitely works and gets you into the sweet 250' crack leading to the final bulge. I think the "Free For All Variation" in Kerry's Book was also an attempt to climb the original line.
-
About 130 up is a short, right-leaning, right-facing corner with a blocky, horizontal, quartz band at the base. Climb cracks to base of corner. Step left a few feet and belay on small ledge at base of cracks. (The follower cleaned a loose block that was blocking access to the corner. It looks like a fun corner but I dont know if youd have enough rope to finish it in the first pitch and find a good belay.) (5.9 140)
-
Climb cracks, then up wandery face to big sloping ledge. (5.9+ 110)
-
From left end of ledge, step to corner and follow thin crack up ~15 until possible to traverse left (5.10a) to the base of a long, beautiful crack. (I think the original line traversed left, even with the belay ledge.) There is a bolt below the start of the crack that may be from the Free For All Variation in Kerrys book. Climb amazing crack on excellent rock as far as you can and belay. (5.10a 180)
-
Continue up crack to steepening face. Original line seems to be blocked by agave. We stepped left and zig-zagged up steep, gritty face to big ledge at base of final corner. (5.10 150)
-
Climb corner to bolt on bulge. Aid through short section with OK gear after bolt (felt more like A.1.) Clip pin, then easy to top. (My partner freed it on toprope and said it felt like 5.10d/11a) (5.7 A.1 100)
Protection
We took lots of stoppers, some tiny cams, doubles to #3 cam, and a #4(probably don't need that.)
Routes in Solitude Dome
- 1Solitude 5.10 A.25.10Trad · Aid