Lunatic

Start in the bowl 40 feet up under the impressive overhanging wall. Climb through four bolts of amazing, Red River Gorge-style varnish pockets to a shallow body-sized hueco. A stretch and some delicate moves up and right gain the flake on the arete, and six more bolts of sustained, steep jugs finally brings you to the anchor. Pumpy. Once it's fully cleaned up, it will be every inch its four stars.

Bolts to chains.