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Description
This route is tremendous.
Some great slab climbing
There is some route finding, trending right past a couple of bolts, traverse more left up a ramp to a corner where you may be lured into a right facing corner with a fixed pin (10d), pass more to the right side staying on the face, make some steep face moves up an arrete to a belay. Or I have also stayed on the right side of the arete using a nice finger crack till you come to more bolts with thin face crux getting to anchor.1st pitch is about 115'
Move the belay diagonally left over sandy bench to next buttress on it's left end. There is a bolt on the slab above marking the route. Some good cracks, and then up and over a wave of granite with hidden holds, There is some confusion here, you can go straight up past a bolt, some chicken heads, a thin crux and 4 bolts up to the anchor, or right on more horizontal crack/flakes, pass another old bolt and end up on the far right end of slab, get back on the slab to pass 2 more bolts up to the anchor.
2nd pitch is about 130'
Location
The right side toe of lower 8 mile buttress. The Tree route is about 100 feet left.The route begins at the toe of a black slab. You will see a line of bolts above. Mrs. Tremendous goes up and left, this goes more to the right. They share the same start with a fixed pin. Mr. cuts right and has old SMC hangers on button heads.
Protection
gear to 2",6 bolts.
Bolted anchor at top of 1st pitch
Bolted anchor at top of 2nd pitch
Good to use long slings( even on the bolts) for the wandering back and forth.
Routes in Eight-Mile Buttress, Lower
- 4Mr Tremendous5.10bTrad