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Peak Mountain 3

Spiderman

FA Steve Strauch, Danny Gates 1969
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

Spiderman is one of the great moderate trad climbs at Smith. This crack on the tuft is surprisingly solid and has some surprisingly exciting moves for such a moderately graded climb.

Pitch 1: 5.6 Begin on the right side of a large ramp. Climb up a right angling crack to a bolted anchor on the left. . . or continue on and link up pitch 2

Pitch 2: 5.7 Continue up the hand crack in the dihedral above. Belay at bolt anchors on the face.

Pitch 3: 5.7 From the belay move right into a seam that quickly opens into a fingercrack. Take this crack to the improbable roof. Pull the roof and continue up easy climbing to a chain anchor on top. Watch rope drag!

Alternate Pitch 3: This easier but less popular variation lacks the luster of the regular finish. From the belay you can take the crack heading up and left avoiding the roof.

Descent: You can rappel the route with two ropes but pulling the ropes can be nasty.

A walk off descent to climber's right requires a bit of scrambling but is potentially less hassle.  There is occasionally a fixed rope to assist the descent.

Protection

Stand double cam rack to 3.5 inches w/ standard nuts selection

All anchors are bolted


2000 km
1000 mi