- Edit (TBD)
Description
From the midway anchor of Circus Act, clip with a long extension draw to reduce drag. Once on on the overhanging arete, slap your way up to what is supposedly a 5.11 crux just after the first bolt (looks like 2-3 hard moves on slopers), and then move up on jugs to a low angle slab and a cam placement. Head straight up to a bolt, and then pull pumpy lieback moves up the steep overhang to the next bolt, clip the bolt, make a few more lieback moves, and then a dynamic move to a jug (I'm guessing here), and finish to the new anchors outfitted with sport clip biners. I moved the old anchors down as they were originally on a completely detached block. Anchor clipping hold is still the same.Be warned that the route done from ground to top is just under 40m, and you will need to lower to the midway anchor in order to get down.
Location
Once you get onto the Hanging Gardens Wall look for the first clean section of rock and an anchor 30' up, just across the trail from a large flat rock.
Protection
Gear to 1", and 5 bolts
Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens
- 25Black Prow5.12aTrad