North Couloir

"A rarely climbed route on rarely climbed peaks" - SP Parker's Eastern Sierra Ice guide

Climb the 45-degree snow/ice couloir (with a couple bulges to 50 degrees) for ~800 feet until it seemingly dead-ends against some shattered black rock. Traverse hard left into a hidden, secondary couloir. Depending on the time of year and snowpack this part could be easy mixed climbing or pure rock. Expect mostly class-4 with a move or two of easy 5th. Rated 5.7 in R.J. Secor's book, there is no 5.7 climbing required anywhere on this route. Maybe the FA party took a more difficult variation near the top? From the notch, class-4+ climbing up and left along an exposed slabby ramp leads to the summit of the West Spire.

Obvious line. If you left any gear near the base, descend the cl-4 West Ridge towards Mt Wallace and down scree slopes back into the bowl. Otherwise, descend the cl-4 South Ridge and head skiers left/east towards Echo Col (the pass is not obvious - it’s the notch in the black rock towards the saddle). Cl-3 rock and snow slopes lead down to Echo Lake. Stay high on benches above the east side of Echo Lake until close to the outlet.

depending on conditions and comfort level a few ice screws, pickets, and a light rock rack could be useful.