Spanish Castle Magic

The first pitch is a 5.8 pitch that starts with a three bolt traverse up and right into a corner under a large flake alcove. A Blue Metolius minicam can protect moves up the crack for 10 feet stepping right to the first bolt. It continues up and right over easy slab terrain to two bolts under a roof. They are near the horizontal alumogranite dike. These bolts have rappel rings. There are three bolts on this pitch.The Second pitch is the crux pitch. Step right, immediately engaging vertical rock. Put a purple Metolius cam in the solution pocket, and clip the first bolt. Continue up and right into a shallow cave, that we call the mouth. The second bolt is on the roof of the mouth, providing a clean line for both the leader and the follower. There is a sit-down rest in the mouth. You may need it. Clip the third bolt stepping up and right, and clip the fourth. Make a balancy move back and slightly left. This crux is similar to pitch six on Berchoff-Williams' route on the north face of Middle Cathedral. It is also a lot like the sixth pitch of Farewell to Kings on Fairview Dome. Balancy moves up into the black streak, reach a good foothold for your right foot, from which the fifth bolt was drilled. From there, move up and slightly right into a 5.8 bomb-bay squeeze chimney. Follow this weakness to the belay alcove. Anchor are on the rib up and left six feet from the alcove. Pitch 2 has rappel rings as well. Note that if you fall on the second pitch, you may not be able to return to your last point without jumaring, and will instead have to pull the rope through and start again from the anchors, as was the case on the first ascent. There are six bolts on this pitch.Pitch three: Make fun moves strait left into a left facing dihedral. Continue up and left to the first bolt. From there, continue more or less strait up the center of the shield, keeping Twice As Nice 30 to 40 feet to your left, and Fisherman's Elbow the same distance to your right. All three routes terminate at the same anchors, where we added a second bolt. There are four bolts on this pitch.

This route is 50 feet to the right of Nice BBD's, on a left slanting crack. Below that, is the hang we created for the pitch.

A blue Metolius TCU, a medium stopper, a purple Metolius Cam. Slings and runners, and about ten draws.