Alienist

We tried this route last weekend based on the recommendation of new guidebook. It takes the line just left of

Topaz

. The first 30 feet are awkward trad and then very thin face climbing past several (7?) bolts lead to a belay just left of

Topaz

first anchor. Having done several 10 and 11a routes earlier we felt the 10b rating was pretty conservative - more like 10+. Harder than Black Wave for sure (11a). Other thoughts?

An excellent outing though a bit lichenified. We rapped this pitch due to time constraints but would have chosen to finish on

Topaz

.

Per

Dave Holliday

:

Pitch 2: 9+; move up and left from the anchor atop the first pitch into a groove. Stem it with a hand and fist crack on the right and a finger crack on the left. Get tucked under a small roof and pull up through it via a thin-hand to hand crack (crux of pitch). Continue on easier terrain to a bolted anchor. (Gear to a #4 Camalot.)

Pitch 3: 10; from the anchor, continue up and left to a right-facing corner. This pitch is steep and strenuous, but good gear is available throughout. Exit through a slot sort of thing to a bolted rappel anchor. (Gear to a #4 Friend or so.)

This is located just left of

Topaz

slab. The start is a small, broken corner. Look for a rightward-trending line of bolts about 40 feet up.

Trad first 30 feet, then bolts. Good anchors.