Beak your Mind

Pitch 1- 20 m

Two bolts and a mantle on loose rock to ledge twenty feet up. Up thin seam to bolt, tension left to second seam. Thin nailing leads to two bolts; continue through crux to three bolt hanging belay. Anchor has rap hardware.

Pitch 2- 15 m

Traverse right on good hooks to bolt beneath roof. Mostly clean placements lead through loose rock and up crack in a shallow dihedral. Continue up to bolt on left, then a rivet on the right. At rivet begin traversing right on hooks and free moves to two bolt anchor with rap hardware. Optional belay here. Just under 30 m to ground from here.

Pitch 3- 15 m

Go straight up from belay on good hooks and a couple rivets, gaining a crack in a shallow dihedral. Mostly clean gear with one or two pins. Lots of bomber horizontal cam placements, finger-hand sizes. One rivet at the top makes the final beached whale move easy. Two bolt anchor with rap hardware, in fairly bad rock. Rap 15 m to previous anchor, or ~55 m to ground.

Descent-- rap from any anchor, or walk off. For walk off, from final anchor continue up loose (and exposed) third class for 10 m to a single bolt and large ledge. Find a fourth class downclimb to notch between the Ear and main buttress. Head north from the notch for a short downclimb on fourth class terrain, or south (looser). With a heavy pack, certain parts of the walkoff may warrant a belay. Beware of lots of loose rock.

Route is located on the west face of the Camel's Ear. From Echo Canyon parking, take trail as for Chase the Dragon, continuing to a saddle. Immediately after saddle route will be on the left. Look for a small horizontal roof at the top of pitch 1. Route starts immediately left of a prominent palo verde. Pitch 1 anchor is visible from ground. 

All protection bolts are 3/8" studs left without hangers. Plan for this. All rivets are 1/4" Zamacs. All anchors are set up with rap hardware.

a few small Tomahawks a bunch of medium Tomahawks 1-2 large Tomahawks a couple angles/sawn angles, I think I used a #4 once

1 set smallish-med offset nuts (dont need anything tiny) 1 set cams (Totem cams are best) fingers-hands (#3 optional, I think I placed it at the top) #2 ballnut got placed, and was bomber, but probably not needed hooks- at least two hooks with 1-2" reach, plus something capable of bathooking a few rivet hangers