- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is to the right of
Taco Filling
, on the side wall that juts out. Start up the left of two short, chimney-type features for a move. Go right in to the right chimney using a horizontal hand hold that is on the prow that forms the divider between the two chimneys(small gear).
Next, go up the right chimney to access the dual cracks above (left crack hand-size, right crack wide with nest sticks). Head up to the nest (which was empty) out the wide crack that ends with a slab. Do an awkward move out the slab to the upper, right-angling, small roof crack. Pull this to the top.
Location
To descend, one can scramble down the chimney. Rap off a big horn/boulder of rock to the lower ledge. Then rap off bolts.
Caution! The horn rap is slightly hard to pull, but not impossible... you just have to walk way out on the lower ledge (farther out than the bolts, you will finish rapping off of).
Protection
Up to a new #5 Camalot (for the OW pod before the slab runout) mid-route.
Routes in John's Tower
- 10Burning Mon5.10Trad