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Peak Mountain 3

Death In the Afternoon

FA Jake Croft
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A beautiful, colorful arete with a horrific landing.  Though it is not a tall climb, if you fell you would probably bounce off the uneven rock underneath it and tumble down the hill into the bushes... Let's not find out.

The movement is technical, the rock quality pristine, and the holds interesting.  Start sitting on the rock in the landing, feet down low.  I started gaston-ing the arete with my right hand, left a bit higher up on a really cool pinch with a good thumb catch.  Move up through crimps, a nice orange slot, and a sloper on the right, an awesome slopey rail, slapping your left up the awesome sloper rail on the left.  Heelhooks definitely, some fancy knee scumming made it feel more secure for me.

I would recommend putting a rope over it before going for it, theres a tree you can sling and then a sketchy flaring crack over right you can fill with cams and nuts to keep the rope from rolling off the side.  I tried to brush all the lichen I could and clean of any loose holds (there were very few) but some of the crystals on the left of the arete should probably be whacked before going to it, I probably missed a few.

Location

Up the hill from the assassin's cradle, on the downhill side of one of the two boulders that makes the chasm.  The line's pretty obvious, if you see it, you'll know

Protection

A lot of pads, but probably just don't fall, maybe some crutches on the sideline