- Edit (TBD)
Description
The climb can be started directly under the first bolt via a large undercling flake (5.10), but the normal start is about 10' to the left, and about halfway to the start of
Rock-a-Lot
.
Above the flake a thin horizontal crack provides protection to the first bolt. Move up and left to the second bolt where the angle steepens and a thin seam starts (microwires handy here). Pull some thin moves and then hit a finger crack which leans to the right higher before ending below the top. Two more bolts protect fun, positive edges to the top.
Bolted anchor on top with a rap from anchors atop
Split Personality
.
High quality rock, fun moves and the continuous nature of the climbing make this a standout route of the area. Four stars out of five.
Location
This route is located on the attractive face left of an obvious zig-zag crack system (
Double Dogleg
) on the furthest right portion of the Shorter Wall.
Protection
4 bolts, pro to 1.5 inches, bolted anchor on top (all bolts 3/8")
Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
- 17Rock Candy5.9+Trad