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Peak Mountain 3

This Pussy Eats You

FA Vaino Kodas and Greg Vernon, 8/86
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route is fairly straight forward. Simply ascend the crack (the direct boulder start is rated 5.10b) to where the crack splits into a "Y" shape which creates two parallel cracks (thus the routes' namesake!). Twenty feet above the split, make a short traverse to the left on a small horizontal crack. The two cracks can be stemmed and jammed (5.9) to the top of the climb. Or the left most crack can be jammed (.10a) to make the route more challenging. There are two anchor bolts at the top of the climb. Pro to 2". The upper section requires smaller gear (3/8" to 3/4")

Location

When first approaching the Courtright area, locate a gravel pullout on the right side of Courtright Road (next to the PG&E access gate). At the top end of the gravel pullout, locate a small rock cairn that identifies the trail to the Tiger Cage/Tiger Wall area. Follow this trail around the right side of the segmented and terraced rock formation. As the trail bends left, a wall appear on the left. This is Tiger Cage. Continue uphill 100 yards further and locate a single crack, that eventually splits into two parallel cracks twenty feet above the base. This is the start of 'This Pussy Eats You'.

Protection

Essential Gear

  • Single 50 meter rope

  • A few slings for directionals

  • Pro to 2" (#1 Metolious TCU and several medium pieces... nuts work well too!)