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Peak Mountain 3

Cobbles 101

FA Jim Yoder Brenden Sullivan
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Welcome to Cobbles 101! This route begins on the prow just left of the gully for "Bowling Alley". The crux (if there is one) is just a quick move off the ground. From there, the climbing stays quite moderate yet enjoyable with some decent exposure in areas. Excellent route for developing your "cobbletrust" skills.

P1: 5.7 - Clip the first bolt overhead, mantle to small ledge and continue up the edge of a cobblestone staircase. 6 clips to chain anchor.

P2: 5.6 - Shimmy across the "camel humps" (may want to sling the second hump), then hand traverse across very thin saddle to first bolt. Clip 5 bolts to chains.

(Pitches 2 and 3 can be linked with long slings down low on the first 3 clips, 12 clips altogether 55 meters.)

P3: 5.6 - Continue up through a shallow groove, up a few low slabs and then up to the large bench above. 6 clips to chains.

P4: 5.8 - Down climb slightly left and step across gap to clip first bolt then continue up the "spine". 8 clips to a hanging belay.

P5: 5.6 - Finish on the Bowling Alley. Climb through the band of basalt to a chimney, sling a cobble after second clip, then leftward up a shoot to the summit. 5 clips.

Descent: From the summit, rappel off the North end of the East face from an anchor set up near a tree. Make two rappels with a 60m rope or make one double-rope rappel to the ground.

NOTE: Chains are for belay and emergency exit only. Rappelling these routes can be dangerous! Be highly aware of swing potential and possibly taking your hands off the rope and climbing a bit to anchors, auto-block recommended. Most rappels are total rope-stretchers so TIE KNOTS or meet your doom!

Protection

Bolted, quickdraws and at least 3 alpine draws - 12 total


Routes in South Face