Pika Paradise

One fantastic pitch of climbing makes this route very worth doing. Approach using Pete's staircase. Instead of linking Pete's in one long pitch, stop at the half-way belay tree. From here, trend right to avoid the steep rock below the Lowe route. One long pitch gets you to easy walking ground along the big ledge system.

Traverse the ledge until near its' end (600 feet or so). Look for a continuous right facing dihedral that is about 120 feet long. This dihedral is what makes the approach worth while. Climb up a gorgeous continuous dihedral for a long pitch to an anchor around a slung chockstone (3 star pitch). Then, a fairly long wandering pitch (5.3ish) gets you to the top.

Descent: Contour below the ridge crest back to the saddle. Descend Collins highway to the Pete's staircase rappels. Another option is to rap (one 60m rope) back to the ledge system.

Standard rack. I placed everything from a green alien up to a 3.5 camalot. This could easily be led without anything bigger than hand sized gear.