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Peak Mountain 3

Fred Flintstone

FA Tony Puppo & James Wilson, April 1980
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A clean & fun 3-4 pitch outing on the left side of Bedrock Tower. Locate a beautiful but mossy right-facing corner near the left edge of the face. Right of this corner are 3 left-leaning cracks. The route starts in the leftmost crack/corner, above a horizontal black dike.

P1) Up the slabby corner with stemming & some liebacks. Gear belay at a nice stance on the left with a fixed stopper. 5.10 100'

P2) Follow the crack until it ends, then cast off onto the featured and extremely runout face. Some really marginal & weighted knob tie-offs are possible between the horrific 1/4" bolts, as well as a shallow 0.75 cam in a pocket. At the second bolt, one may be tempted to try going straight up - this is very hard - instead traverse hard right and then up a lower angle crack. An angle piton and a third bolt will reveal themselves. Climb up the chimney to a large belay ledge made of boulders. 5.8+ R 160'

P3) Up the crack and chimney to the top. With anything less than a 70M rope, you will have to do 2 pitches to top out. 5.8 220'

Location

Starts in the first left-leaning crack/corner to the right of the obvious mossy right-facing corner. Descend 3rd class ledge to left.

Protection

Standard rack to 3"


Routes in Bedrock Tower


  1. 1
    Fred Flintstone
    5.10
    Alpine · Trad